Method of cutting and assembling garments by wholesale.



F. A. PLATZ.

. METHOD OF CUTTING AND ASSEMBLING GARMENTS BY WHOLESALE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 4, 1913.

Patented Apr. 20, 1915.

34- LEFT wuawio'c 55% his 6mm 2 specification of. Letters ratent.

Patented Apr... 2ft, ffilld.

Application filed November t, 1913. serial No. 799,064).

T all whom it may concern Be it known that I, FRANK A. Pm'rz, a citizen of the United States, and residing at Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New Y0rk,have invented a certain new and useful llmproved Method of Cutting and As sembling Garments by Wholesale, of which the following is a specification, such as will enable those skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to the manufacture of garments by wholesale and particularly to garments made of rubberized goods or goods of one color such as tan, brown and the like, and it consists of a method of cutting and making garments, whereby the production of what is called shaded garments, or garments of different colors or effects is avoided.

In cutting garments of the class specified by wholesale, it is customary to provide piles of strips of fabric from which a number of garments, or the parts thereof, may be cut at a single operation, and in placing the strips of fabric together to form the piles, said strips are arranged in pairs in which the separate strips of each pair are placed face to face, and in the process of cutting garments of the class specified heretofore followed, two of said strips are employed in making a single garment, and these strips are frequently of difierent shade or color, and this produces What is called shady or shaded garments, and this result is very objectionable and sometimes results in the production of shaded effects which are fatal to the garment or garments so produced.

With my improved method, the separate strips of fabric placed in piles, as above stated, are all arranged with their faces in one direction, and in the practical application of my method, ll place on the top strip of fabric, the patterns of the garment or garments to be produced and thereby out from each of said strips a complete garment, or all the parts thereof, and when the said parts are assembled, in the final making of the garment, the shading, or shaded effect, hereinbefore referred to, is avoided, by reason of the fact that each garment is out from a single piece of fabric, whereas in the old processes it took two strips of the fabric to make a garment, or, in other words, the parts of eachgarment produced were cut from two separate strips of fabric;

and in the preferred application of my method l place on the top strip of fabric ofthe pile of strips assembled, two or more complete patterns or parts thereof, and in cutting and forming the'garments, I produce from a single strip or fabric two or more complete garments, this second method of procedure being a great saving of material over that in which only one set of patterns are employed or used, as above set out.-

My invention also involves an improved method of assembling the separate parts of a garment or garments cut or formed in the manner described and marking said parts for identification, whereby the separate parts of each garment cut may be assembled without difliculty and without previous experience and cannot be mixed or mingled with the parts of another garment, though of the same style, shape and form.

The invention is fully disclosed in the fol lowing specification of which the accompanying drawing forms a part, in which the separate parts of my improvement are designated by suitable reference characters in each of the views, and in which Figure 1 is a perspective view of a pile of strips of fabric assembled .or placed one upon another preparatory to cutting garments therefrom, and showing the method of arranging duplicate patterns or parts of patterns thereon for the purpose of cutting coats, all the strips of fabric being arranged with their faces in one direction, either up or down ;Fig. 2 a detail perspective view of a bundle of one of the parts of a garment cut from the pile of goods, shown in Fig. 1,

and on an enlarged scale, the part selected being a sleeve, and showing also the method of applying marks to said parts ;-Fig. 3 a plan View of one part of a garment cut from the pile shown in Fig. 1, and showing a modified method of marking said part, the part selected being a front ;-Fig. 4 a view similar to Fig. 3 but showing both a left and right front and the method of placing them together and showing another modification in the method of tabbingsaid devices, and ;Fig 5 a view similar to Fig. 4: and showing a left and right back and showing another modified form of marking.

lln the practice of my invention, as shown in the drawing, I provide a pile a, of strips of fabric, and in the accompanying drawing,

- the backs and fronts one sleeve for each garment. I also prefthis-pile consists of ten separate-strips a, but it will be understood that any desired number of strips of fabrieor .clothmaythus be placed together and the face sides of said strips are all placed in the same direction, either up or down, -invention,-as shown-in the drawing, I place on the pile of strips or fabric,.two complete patterns of a coat or, of all the parts of a coat, but in Fig. 1, all the parts-or, patterns thereof are not shown, the parts shown being of two garments, and

,erably use pattern parts of different colors and mark the corresponding parts of the patterns of each garment on ,one side distinctly, the colors selected being red. and blue, and this aids and simplifies the selection of such patterns asare required to fit in a lay of sizes or lay-out of patterns upon the pile of cloth or fabric to be marked out and cut,as hereinafter-described. v I

I also designate the parts of each garment or the patterns thereof by numbers giving the size of the garment, and add thereto the name of each part, such as 34 r' htf. and

34 left, 36 right and 36 1e ti, these designating numbers, and, words meaning that a 34 right and 34 left front of one garment, and. a 36 right and 36 left the front of another garment, while all the other parts of each garment or the patterns thereof are designated in a similar way, and in the accompanying drawing, the right and left front patterns of one garment, say 34 are marked 6, whlle the right and left-backs, are marked 6 and the left. sleeve 12*, and-the right and left fronts of the other garment are marked 0, the left and right backs are marked 0 and the right sleeve 0 i It is optional to designate the separate parts of patterns by means of colors, but it is essential to mark them distinctly, descriptive of each on one side, to distinguish, or individualize, or classify each pattern part from the others, as, right pattern parts from left pattern parts contained in a single or. a double set of patterns.

The garment orgarments, or the separate parts thereof are cut out in the usual way by means of tools or implements that cut at one operation through the entire pile of fabric, and this part of the process does not differ from those heretofore followed.

In Fig. 2 I have shown at d abundle of sleeve pieces cut from the pile shown in Fig. 1, and said. bundle consists of tenplies or pieces, and secured'to the edges thereof are cloth or other tabs or tickets e and f, and on the tickets 6 are marked the numerals from 1 tolO inclusive, and on the face of the ticket f are marked the numerals 34-100 and on the-backs of said tickets are markedith'e nu- 1 merals 42-121 and it will be seen that and in the practice of my method v use of the make up the and ten coats,

approximately the same -'the top ticketof th -ticketsif is turned back,

as shown at F, so as to show the under or back side thereof-I L, 1

In Fig. 3 I have shown a tab or ticket 9 secured to the face of a part of a garment cut from the pile a. This ticket and the of applying the same is old, but my numerals applied thereto is new, and this said ticket with my use and method of applying the numerals can be placed on and fastened to all fabrics according to the nature, character, or texture of the cloth either woolen or rubberized goods, where practical, and can be of such size as to admit other numerals and words that may be essential for purposes of recordation or registra- .be ,used. on .what is known as a Joker, also. In Fig.4 I have shown tabs or tickets 12 Simjlfll;t0 the tickets e but to which I apgplytwo' numerals ,1-34, as shown,and in Fig.5, I have shown the numerals 134,

marke stamped or otherwise placed on the back or wrong side of'the :goods, and the meaning and value of thes'e'numerals will be hereinafter described. I

; In the practice of myinvention, should a manufacturer desire to cut ten coats, size 34, size 36, making the quantity of twenty coats to be cut from the same or color, design, and grade of cloth, he,'the manufacturer takes the required, or approximatel the required number of yards of cloth an makes a pile of the required number'of plies that the sizes and quantity of coats require and arranges his patterns, sizes 34 and 36, in the most practical and economical way, or, as shown in ig. 1, on the pile and reproduces on the top ply of said pile the forms or outlines of the said patterns by marking around them, and after each pattern or pattern part has been outlined on said top ply, the same is. removed and the size number of said pattern part marked within the space outlined. :ThlS marking and outlining of the pattern parts of sizes 34 and 36 having deen done and all the pattern parts havingbeen removed, the forms, shapes or outlines of the pattern parts, sizes 34 and 36, are cut out in the usual.way, and all the parts belongin to size 34; are assembled in one group, anc

parties apply the .tabs or tickets e to all of the parts of each size garment, and the tabs or tickets f to one part of each garment of both sizes. The tabs or tickets 6, shown in Fig. 2, are provided with numerals from 1 to 10 inclusive designating the ply, while the tabs or tickets 7 shown in said figure are provided on one slde with the numerals 34-100 and on the other with the numerals W t nu- 42-121. The numeral 3tdesignates the size of the garment, the numeral 100 the lot number, the numeral 42 the bundle number, and the numeral 121 the manufacturing number.

From the above, it will be seen that onl one part of each garment manufacture preferably the sleeve, will have the two tabs or tickets, shown in Fig. 2, and the object of the same will be readily understood from the following. llt must first be borne in mind that the numerals applied to each of the tickets f have the following meaning. The numeral 3 1 designates the size of the arment, the numeral 100 the lot num er, which designates the class, grade, or design of goods used.. The numeral 42 or the bundle number will appear on the tickets on the sleeves of all the 34: size coats, while on the 36 size coats a numeral 4L3 or other numeral will appear and this numeral is not shown, or in other words, the sleeve bundle of each size garment of one cutting or order will be given a different bundle number. The numeral 121 or the manufacturing number will be marked on said tickets on the sleeves of both sized garments of one cutting or order. The other, or smaller tickets 0 secured adjacent to the larger tickets f have the numerals 1 to 10 inclusive marked thereon, as hereinbefore stated. All of the other parts of the garment or garments are provided with single tabs or tickets on which are marked two numerals, as shown in Fig. 4, the first of which determines the ply or shade number, and the second the size number, and it will be seen in Figs. 3 and 5, that this may be accomplished in other ways, the ply or shade number being marked on the ticket 9, and the size number marked by chalk, or otherwise, on the garment, Fig. 3, and in Fig. 5 both the ply number and size number are stamped or marked on the back or wrong side of the goods.

T'Vith the above method of marking each part of a garment, except one sleeve or other part, with a ticket having the ply number and size number, and said sleeve with two tickets one of which has the ply number and the other being provided with four nu merals indicating the size number, lot number, bundle number and manufacturing number, it is possible, when a faulty garment is returned to the manufacturer, to determine who or what was the cause of the fault above mentioned, this being accomplished by the oneticket found on one sleeve, on which is marked four numerals, it being understood that the tickets on all of the other parts of the garment have been obscured or cut off after the parts were assembled. The manufacturer will have a record on his books designating the party who cut lot number 100, or who applied the pile of goods with one ticket determining 7 the ply or shade number, and size number, and one bundle, preferably the sleeve of each garment, with two tickets determining the ply or shade number, size number, lot number, bundle and manufacturing number, and assem bling the corresponding ply of each size garment, and obscuring or cutting ofl all the tickets of each part of the garment except the ticket 7 on one sleeve, which is left on the garment in order that the manufacturer may'determine the history of each garment that may be returned to him for any reason.

In the drawing,][ have shown semi-circles z marked on each of the pattern pieces in Fig. 1, and my idea in showing the same is to point out clearly that if the right and left parts of one size pattern be placed together, the same will match, but it will be understood that these semi-circles are not em ployed in practice.

lit must be understood, that the separate pieces of the pile a of goods, as shown in Fig. 1, do not necessarily have to be of the same design or color, and each of the ten plies in said pile might be of different colors or designs, and if such should be the case, the lot number on the tabs or tickets 7 of the sleeve bundle 01, shown in Fig. 2, would i be different on each ply in said bundle, or ply number 1, or the top ply would be marked number 100, as shown, but ply numbers 2, 3, 4, etc., might be marked 101 102 108 etc., or with any other number, or in other words, the number applied to each ply will determine the grade of goods used, and, again, it must be understood that the bundle number 42 in Fig. 2, is applied to the 34. size garments, in one cutting or order, and should other sized garments, say 36, 38, and 40 be out from said cutting or order, the same will be given each a different bundle number, and if a cutting or order should be so large that it would have to be piled in three different piles, or cut by three or more operators, every bundle in each pile will be given the same manufacturing number, or strictly speaking, the manufacturing number 121 is the order number andchanges only when a different cutting or order is manufactured or required.

It is optional to employ the numerals and devices 0 and f in Fig. 2, jointly, individually and separately at any location, on anyone of the parts of a garment where practical, or to embody or place all the numerals on one large tab, ticket or device, and the use of more numerals and words may be employed for the purpose of further recordation or registration, and the tickets e with the numerals thereon, aid and direct with certainty and accuracy the assembling of all the separate parts of a garment to their proper and corresponding ply or shade number, perfectly and completely. It must be understood that these said tickets with their numerals may be placed, or affixed, on all grades of goods or fabrics, and it will be also understood that a bundle contains or comprises a practical and convenient amount of garment parts tied together, either all of one size, or a number of sizes as the case may be, providing the bulk or Weight will allow the convenient handling of the same, and all sizes contained in said bundle will be given one bundle number. In other words,'and as has hereinbefore been stated, in a large cutting or order, the different sizes are each given a different bundle number, but in the case of small cuttings or orders in which different sizes are involved, each of the different sizes will be given one bundle number.

Although I have emphasized the placing of the strips or layers of goods in a pile with their faces all in one direction, either up or down, which operation together with the application and use of the numerals controlling the plies of cloth or fabric, facilitates the correct and proper assembling of the parts of a garment, the cloth may be laid in the old or any other way, and by means of my new application and use of the numeral marks, as distinctly set out, I assemble all the parts of a garment from a single ply or layer of cloth. But this last procedure however is not entirely safe and practical, nor is 1t economical enough to practice, though it might be employed by persons thoroughly skilled in theart of manufacturing clothing, but with my new method of procedure, or placing of a pile of goods with their faces all in one direction and by applying numerals in consecutive order, to each individual ply in said pile, the correct assembling of the corresponding parts, ora complete garment or garments, can be effected, without effort or error.

The use of the tickets, as shown in Fig. 3, is for fabric only, and by securing the tickets to the edge of the parts, as shown in Figs. 2 and 4, or stamping or marking said parts, as shown in Fig. 5, I can apply the desired numerals to any kind or class of goods including rubberized goods, without. destroying the goods in any way, and it will be understood that my invention is not limited to the number of different sized garments to be cut from one pile of goods, or to the exact method of placing the patterns thereon, or to the design of said patterns, and changes in and modifications of the construction herein described may be made, within the scope of the appended claims, without departing from the spirit of my invention or sacrificing its advantages.

Having fully described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. The herein described method of cutting and assembling the parts of garments which consists in placing a number of strips of cloth in a pile with all of said strips facing in one direction, marking on said pile the outline of the parts of the patterns of different garments and cutting through the pile to form bundles of parts or pieces corresponding with the parts of the patterns, marking the parts or pieces of all of said bundles for identification and marking one of the parts or pieces of each garment with the arment size number, the lot number, the lbundle number and the manufacturing num- 2. The herein described method of cutting and assembling the parts of garments which consists in placing a number of strips of cloth in a pile with all of said strips facing in one direction and marking on said pile the outline of parts of patterns of different garments and cutting through the pile to form bundles of parts or pieces corresponding with the parts of the patterns, and marking the parts or pieces of said bundles for identification.

3. In the manufacture of garments, the method which consists of placing goods in a pile, arranging distinctly designated parts of patterns on said pile and marking the outline of the same on the top ply of said pile, cutting through the pile to form bundles of parts or pieces corresponding to the parts of the patterns, and consecutively numbering all of the parts of said bundles so as to facilitate the correct assembling of the corresponding parts of each garment.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my invention I have signed my name in presence of the subscribing witnesses this 1st day of November, 1913.

FRANK A. PLATZ.

Witnesses C. MULREANY, S. ANDREWS. 

